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The Essential Rules of Black Tie

The Essential Rules of Black Tie 0

Alvin Mahmudov

 

The Black Tie

Wearing a tuxedo can be a lot like speaking an unfamiliar language. The smallest mistake can ruin the whole effect. Here's how to get it right. 

You can add personal touches after you've nailed the standard. For your basic tux, stick with tradition. This dictates a one-button jacket with peaked lapels, a true pleat-front or marcella-front shirt (with French cuffs), black wool or silk socks, and black patent-leather lace-ups or polished oxfords. Bow tie only, in red or black (and tied yourself-it's the mark of a gentleman). And a cummerbund, of course. 

The pleats of the cummerbund should face upward.

Your cuff links should match your watch: gold with gold, silver with steel, and so on.

Leave your wallet at home and take a money clip instead. It's smaller, so it won't distort the lines of your tux. 

How Not to Look Like a Waiter

No notched lapels-peaked, shawl lapels only. One-button jacket, no three-button. Wear a proper evening shirt. Wear a cummerbund. Tie your own tie, and stop filling other people's glasses. 

The Tuxedo

How do I buy a tuxedo that will be fashionable now and in thirty years?

Try a one - or two-button tux in wool-mohair blend, perhaps in a hopsack weave, the salesperson will understand. With grosgrain lapels, not satin, which is more fragile and shows its age more easily. Choose peaked not notched, lapels, which are less susceptible to the whims of fashion than a shawl collar. Go for the single-pleat pants with waistband side tabs for a bit of size adaptability. Dry-clean no more than once a year, dry cleaning will do more damage to your tux than wearing it will. Keep it in a hanging suit bag on a properly shaped wood hanger when not in use. 

 

Source: The Handbook of Style

The Invitation Translator: How to REALLY Dress the Part

The Invitation Translator: How to REALLY Dress the Part 0

Here is a quick guide on how to decipher the dress code.

Danny Kekspro
WHAT IT SAYS  WHAT IT IMPLIES WHAT IT REALLY MEANS
Black Tie Tuxedo only, and not a black suit Tuxedo only, and not a black suit
Cocktail attire A suit, shirt, and tie Don't look as if you came straight from the office, even if you did
Black-tie optional You can choose between black tie and a suit Black tie
Alternative black tie Black tie, but with a twist Black tie
Business Casual Polo shirt, chinos A dress shirt that's not a polo shirt. No sneakers, no jeans.
Come as you are Take a shower, at least Dress any way you like
  • Brent Kraus
The Definitive Style Rules: Navy Suits

The Definitive Style Rules: Navy Suits 0

A navy suit is the most flexible suit color you can buy. Followed closely by charcoal and medium gray. 

1. A navy suit can be worn with both black and brown belts and shoes. A black suit cannot.

2. The best shoe color for a navy suit: chocolate brown. It's dark enough to wear at night and colorful enough to shine during the day. 

3. Tuck in your shirt.

4. Three things you need in that party shirt underneath your navy suit: big cuffs, a high collar, and quality pearl buttons. One thing you don't: bling.

5. Navy doesn't have to mean plain. Instead of toying with loud stripes, try a textured fabric to give your navy suit added character. 

6. Two expensive suits are better than five cheap ones. One of them should be navy.

7. The John Kruk rule: Know your neck size. (He obviously doesn't) You should be able to fit one finger between your collar and your neck when your shirt is fully buttoned.

8. Neurotic comedians like Richard Lewis wear only black. Do not follow suit.

Follow these simple rules to master your navy suit game. 

 

Igor Ovsyannykov
  • Brent Kraus
  • Tags: suits
The Terms: Jacketology

The Terms: Jacketology 0

Here are six rarely used bits of suit jargon you may never need to use but might be glad to know all the same.

The Drop: The term used to denote a suit's shape, i.e., a "drop six" means a trouser waist six inches smaller than the chest.

The Jigger: The single button in a double-breasted jacket that is always kept fastened.

Bosom Pocket: Pockets cut into the suit's fabric, usually covered with a flap.

Ticket Pocket: The third pocket above the side pocket of a jacket (normally the right one), usually with a flap.

Kissing Buttons: How cuff button on expensive suits are sewn so they almost overlap up the sleeve.

The Scye: The term for the armhole, the size and shape of which often determine the jacket's fit.

Olu Eletu
Family Raises Suicide Awareness Through Bow Ties

Family Raises Suicide Awareness Through Bow Ties 0

The goal isn't to make money, it's to raise awareness about suicide risk and prevention.

The Tuxedo: A Timeless Necessity 0

In a world of casual Fridays no longer being restricted to Fridays. Jeans being worn with everything and no reason at all to dress up. The Tuxedo has faded into the abyss only presenting itself in period drama TV shows and movies. It is worn so little, that when it is worn it often resembles a costume or a wedding with no exceptions. For the man that has everything, the Tuxedo is the final remaining element that is needed to complete his wardrobe.
  • Mr. Oliver